Latitude 49º 6′ 33.63″, Longitude -113º 50′ 58.92″

Waterton-Lakes-National-Park-by-Betsey-CrawfordI have located heaven. It’s relatively easy to find, right at the end of a beautiful drive through the prairies of southwestern Alberta, just into Canada north of the Montana border. The latitude and longitude above are the gates. Not pearly, as one was led to expect, though perfectly nice examples of the rather odd Tudor/rustic combination favored by Parks Canada, since on the terrestrial plane heaven calls itself Waterton Lakes National Park. Once inside you drive alongside lovely blue lakes on the left, where, late one evening, I dimly saw a large herd of black-headed elk moving softly in the green dusk, some swimming in the luminous twilit water.  On the right, rolling, windswept prairie flows into mountains.

Western blue clematis (Clematis occidentalis)

Western blue clematis (Clematis occidentalis)

Eventually you come to a small village on the edge of the largest lake, and a campground right off the beach, surrounded by mountains. The entire town could, I suspect, fit into a New York City block. There are hotels and inns, private homes, a few restaurants, some galleries and gift shops. All very low key. In a nod to nutrition, there’s one small grocery store, but the main food in heaven, judging by the number of people eating it all the time, is ice cream, supplied by no less than four shops devoted to it.

Munching bear wandering by

Munching bear wandering by

There you are perfectly willing to stay for the rest of existence. Though, I have to admit, you may change your mind as the local gas station becomes completely covered by ten feet of snow.

Glacier lily (Erythronium grandiflorum)

Glacier lily (Erythronium grandiflorum)

I came for the Waterton Lakes Wildflower Festival. The first time I was here, in September, 2012, I saw a poster for it, and have been waiting to get back ever since. There were various events, and I took part in several. All were fun, and one, a walk up Rowe Mt. with a man named Edwin Knox, who has worked at the park for 30 years, was so sublime it’s now the touchstone for such days: walk up a beautiful, not-too-steep-in-any-one-place mountain trail with a fun and knowledgeable guide, keying wildflowers on the way up. Eat lunch at a tiny, gorgeous alpine lake. Climb to an alpine meadow full of glacier lilies. (Let the three hardiest members of the group climb all the way to the top.) Wander down slowly enough to take lots of pictures along the way.

Edwin, wildflower ID book in hand, leading the way up Mt. Rowe

Edwin, wildflower ID book in hand, leading the way

In a world full of spectacular beauty, Waterton Lakes is still a place apart. Part of it is the confluence of its elements: the prairie rolls from the Great Plains in the east into the Rocky Mountains to the north and west. The spruce, fir  and pine clad mountains cradle eighty lakes and ponds, as well as more than sixty miles of rivers and streams, within the park’s 195 square miles.  There are 1,000 species of plants in this small area, from minute unicellular algae to towering Douglas firs. Of those species, 179 are considered rare; 22 of those occur in Waterton and nowhere else on earth.

Mountain lady's slipper (Cypripedium montanum)

Mountain lady’s slipper (Cypripedium montanum)

Other creatures love it, too. Bears cross the street as you take pictures of orchids, pulling up roots to munch on. Hummingbirds pollinate paintbrush. Butterflies meet up on lovely purple fleabane. Wild sheep rest in the shade on the road as you drive, while a mother and baby pass by, so close you could reach out and feel the mother’s horns.

Big horn sheep resting in the handiest shade

Big horn sheep resting in the handiest shade

The sheer exuberance of this profusion is breathtaking. But there’s more than beauty here. With neighboring Glacier National Park and the Bob Marshall Wilderness in Montana, Waterton Lakes forms what is called the Crown of the Continent, one of the last truly vast preserved wild places in our two countries. The Blackfoot people call it the ‘Backbone of the World.’ Its peaks reach to nearly 10,000 feet. Its wildlife can roam they way they always have. It holds the headwaters of several major river systems. A drop of water that falls on the crown can end up in the Arctic Ocean via the McKenzie River watershed system, the Pacific Ocean via the Columbia or Fraser system, the Atlantic via the Sasketchewan system that flows into Hudson Bay, or the Gulf of Mexico via the Missouri River, making tiny Waterton an integral part of a vast arterial network.

Tall purple fleabane (Erigeron peregrinus) hosting butterflies

Tall purple fleabane (Erigeron peregrinus) hosting butterflies

Thus, many beautiful and powerful forces both meet and spread out from here: water, rocks, mountains, sky, trees, meadows, waterfalls, flowers, wind, elk, bear, eagle, big horn sheep, bison. On the ground, where I spent a great deal of time, all was quiet and beautiful beyond measure. But though I was dealing with the gentlest of elements — wildflowers, grasses, leaves — the exhilarating sense of sitting among these immense energies was very strong. The world living as it was meant to live.

Heaven is within us, the sages say. A lovely, challenging idea. But there’s no denying that some earthly places are more heavenly than others, and Waterton Lakes, the beautiful blooming bowl held in the mountains, is one of the heavenliest.

(More images are in the Waterton wildflowers gallery, which is here.)

Waterton-Lakes-National-Park-by-Betsey-Crawford

14 Comments

  1. Holly July 31, 2015 at 11:29 am #

    Betsy: This is such a beautiful blog and post. Waterton misses you. Come back often. You are “one of us”, one of the flowers, a kindred heart.
    thank you for sharing this.

    • Betsey August 1, 2015 at 8:13 pm #

      Thank you so much, Holly. Loved seeing you here. And love the idea that I’m “one of the flowers, a kindred heart.” I’ll be back!

  2. Mary Anne July 14, 2015 at 10:59 am #

    Thank you Betsey! I so feel this journey. I also took an amazing trip to Montana and Canada and felt like I touched heaven. I went on a hike through wildflowers and cried the entire hike because it was so powerful. Thanks for posting! xoxoxo

    • Betsey July 22, 2015 at 12:46 pm #

      Thanks, Mary Anne. It’s such a beautiful area. And I so get the crying through hikes!

  3. Karen July 9, 2015 at 11:59 pm #

    Yay! Canada! I love this post! 🙂

    I’ve actually been to Waterton Lakes when I was 16, but I had long forgotten how beautiful it is. Thanks for the reminder. The air is so fresh there. Everything is so pure.

    Your photography is getting more and more ridiculously gorgeous. Keep shooting and sharing! I love your (camera) eye!

    Ps. Hope that we really do eat ice cream in Heaven! 🙂

    • Betsey July 12, 2015 at 5:59 pm #

      Time to go back! Take your watercolors. Thanks for your lovely words. And yes, I’m sure we really do eat all the ice cream we want in heaven.

  4. Marianne July 9, 2015 at 7:41 pm #

    Wow! Heavenly indeed! And now added to my bucket list.

    Thanks for sharing this incredibly beautiful place Betsey!

    • Betsey July 12, 2015 at 5:58 pm #

      Thanks, Marianne. You will love it!

  5. Marcia July 9, 2015 at 3:56 pm #

    This is so,so beautiful. Thank you for taking me on your trip!

    • Betsey July 12, 2015 at 5:58 pm #

      Thank you, Marcia. Glad you came along!

  6. Venus Maher July 9, 2015 at 3:53 pm #

    Bless you my friend, pretty powerful words. I loved the glimpse of heaven that you gave us. I have been there and appreciate it.

    • Betsey July 12, 2015 at 5:57 pm #

      Thank you, Venus. If you’ve been there, you know. So many beautiful things/scenes/creatures/flowers abounding there.

  7. Carol Nicklaus July 9, 2015 at 3:02 pm #

    Oh my, oh my, oh my… This is just TRANSPORTING… (And how could one not immediately fall in love with a plant called “grasping twistedstock”…?) You’ve taken many a gorgeous photo, my dear, and even gorgeous photos of things that often, themselves, do not appear essentially “gorgeous,” until you have shown them to be so… But this place does, indeed, look like heaven… And you have done it justice, and taken us all there!

    • Betsey July 12, 2015 at 5:56 pm #

      Thank you, my dear. Yes, ‘grasping twistedstock’ gets the prize for best name ever. I love the idea that I can convey the gorgeousness of things that aren’t necessarily ‘gorgeous’ in themselves.